Everyone has to start somewhere.
Later in the afternoon on this day we were to meet at the center of what is called St. Peter's Square.(funny it is called square...)
So I am back on day 8 in March of 2007. We always have a big day for the first one in Rome. We usually get an early start at the Vatican. We start at the Vatican Museums and this time, we had to hire a guide to get through the masses of people. Groups have priority and we we let in before single tourists. We walked right to the Sistine Chapel and wouldn't you know it, we were in the Sistine Chapel by ourselves! I had my whisper system going (or "Billpod" as some of the students call it) and was able to give a brief art lecture in the Sistine Chapel. There was no one else there! We continued through the maze again and went to the Raphael rooms and met up with Pete and Rika. Eventually we went through the classical sculpture and paintings. 
This is a self portrait in the reflection of a work of art in the MoMa in New York. It was a mob scene at the museum. Crowds literally push you through the upper floors. Most people look for a few seconds and then take a picture and then shuffle along.
After visiting the gallery we went to the Village Vanguard for the Bill Charlap Trio. The Vanguard is an authentic old school jazz club. Tony Bennett was in the audience so you know the show will be great. Since it was our last night, we also went back to Times Square so Ruth could buy some I love New York t-shirts. We still had to go to Rockefeller Center and Cinema and Niki still had to have pizza.
A great thing about the Metropolitan Museum of Art is that you can count on seeing some of the greatest paintings of all time. Here are a couple of gems that I love to see. This room, the Cubiculum (bedroom) from the Villa of P. Fannius Synistor
Saturday we walked through Central Park to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was a beautiful day, cool enough to walk without getting hot. I had a 10:00 appointment to get my guide badge. I love having the power to talk about the art, and with my microphone, I don't really bother the average museum person. We spent 6 hours at the Met and some of the time, I went through some of the highlights of the collections. I usually start with the Egyptian temple and then to the Roman frescos. The Roman paintings are some of the best in the world that have survived.
One of my highlights on this year's New York trip was a visit to Chinatown for lunch. Cinema and Niki ordered a feast for us. I would say that we couldn't have duplicated this lunch on our own and had a chance for a taste of China. Lunch included noodles, soup, shrimp, pork, beef, little squids, dumplings,rice, vegetables, sauces,some soft dough things, tea and chopsticks and more than we could eat. I don't know any of the names of the dishes. Ask Cinema or Niki.
The Art Army made the fall trip to New York City and just came back today. We had a great trip and managed to do all the things I had planned and hoped to do. Yesterday was a 15 hour touring day that began at the Staten Island Ferry and ended with the Village Vanguard and final walk to Rockefeller Center. For the new recruits in the "Art Army" it was a good induction. One picture is our first visit to Times Square and the other is on our way to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and stopping in Central Park. The weather was beautiful and the group was happy, especially Ruth.
We spent the evening in Assisi and the early morning.
Our bus unloaded at the parking lot just out side of Assisi and in a medieval city they just didn't have streets for buses to pull up to drop off pilgrims. So we had to pull our luggage to the hotel. It was good exercise. I guess they forgot to include porterage. It was a zig zag walk up hill to the hotel and quite a work out. Once settled in the hotel, we were able to see the incredible church of St. Francis. There isn't much else to do in this town because it is more of a religious pilgrimage site. In our part of town there was nothing open at night. For us, it is a night to catch up in the journal, though it seems many of the students find things to do.
One of the things all travelers have to be aware of are the people working the street. Some appear to be begging, some act distressed, some may set up a diversion while an accomplice slips away with things that used to be in your purse, or wallet. 
You have to leave the city sometime, and it is always with a little regret. Our last event when we go to Florence is the Brancacci Chapel by Masaccio. The Brancacci Chapel is one of the keys to the Early Renaissance. It is a collaboration of artists, but Masaccio is the most famous. In the presence of great art and in a place where so many great artists have come to study, you can't help but to feel blessed to be there. 
One of the most welcome sites in Florence is the Ponte Vecchio. It is the bridge with jewelry shops built in. A remnant of the Renaissance, it offers an interesting harmony of ochre and tan. I actually have shopped here, hung out here, lectured here, listened to music here, stared at the lights and reflections and reminisced about Benvenuto Cellini and his bust on the bridge. It is not a flashy structure but it is unique to Florence.
This is the group at the Bargello in Florence. This day is tough because we go to the Bargello right away in the morning. The Bargello is an awesome sculpture museum with Donatello, Michelangelo, Cellini and more. There are basically 3 rooms we spend time in and one could spend a few days. Then we hike over to the Brancacci Chapel to see the Masaccio frescos, grab a bite to eat and drive away. More than a little to absorb by midday. It really helps to prep the group and some don't care as much as others. It is a bit of sensory overload, but that is what you expect. I think you treasure these kind of days when you are stuck, bored with nothing to do at a different place at a different time.
Jenna is pretty fortunate when it comes to the Duomo. The Duomo is one of the most famous landmarks in art history. A masterpiece by Brunelleschi and some would say, the beginning of the Renaissance.
Florence is such an irresistible city. It has somehow lasted so that you can easily imagine life in the Renaissance. But beyond that, it still has the proportion, elegance, and visual power to hold you. Even in our media saturated world, Florence stands unique and should be experienced first hand. Sure, you can take pictures but you have to remember what it was like to be there.....what did it smell like? what did it sound like? how much did the gelato cost? Was it crowded?
Can circles make us better people? Do we feel better? Do we think clearer? Some say yes, the power of architecture can change you. You can bet Brunelleschi thought so, and convinced the Pazzi family when this was designed in the 15th century.
After the church of Santa Maria Novella, we walked to Santa Croce and then to the Pazzi Chapel. The problem with a big touring day is that you seldom really soak in all of the details. The reason I stress the pre-trip study is so that the average traveler can recognize and appreciate what they are walking into, by, or near. You really have to tune in. When we were in the church of Santa Croce, it was sad to have a loudspeaker warn you about possible pickpockets. It must have happened enough to make them ruin the atmosphere. This is one of those "Kenneth Clark" shots from his famous Civilization series.
How much can one day affect you? I think one day can have a huge impact on your life. Of course there are the big days-graduations, weddings, births, deaths, etc. But what about that day you were in Florence? You walked a few blocks to an old church right by the train station. After a while you had a chance to sit in an ancient cloister with a few friends. The moment will be hard to re-capture. The air was fresh and Italian, you were young and eager to learn. You just saw some of the greatest frescos in the history of art and it was time for a gelato. Now that was a good day.
This is the Spanish chapel that was finally open after many years. There is never a rush to reopen a Gothic fresco in Italy. This one is by Andrea da Firenze called the Way to Salvation.
I was particularly happy to see that the cloister of Santa Maria Novella was open again after being closed for years. Actually the Spanish chapel in the cloisters was closed. The frescos in this picture remained open, but they are kind of ruined. Ucello would be disappointed in the state of repair his fresco is in. At least some of it still survives. I guess you can see that the group didn't need to squeeze in so much- but I suppose we don't want to stand on the grass.
One of the priceless treats in Florence for us is visiting the restaurant called the Reginella. Marcello is the manager and we used to live next door to the restaurant when I was on sabbatical in 2003. Now each time we visit, Marcello treats us like "life on the A list". He gives me a big hug and kiss and treats everyone very special. It is great fun and great food and a most memorable evening. His waiters play along and flirt with all the girls. The location is right across from the entrance to the Medici tombs in the apse of San Lorenzo.
If you have ever wondered what it was like in the early church, you should come to the outskirts of Ravenna to St. Apollinare in Classe. It is a beautiful interior, with mosaics, marble inlays, saints, angels, Christ and the cross. What more do you need? It is possible to sit in this church and time travel to the 6th century. I first came here on a sabbatical trip with cousin Pete in 1987. It took many years before I came back and now when we visit Venice, we always come here. Just for a short time, but still it answers questions about church architecture, decoration, and the general space of worship.
If you look up in the church of San Vitale, you can see what we have lost in church decoration. Of course this is an Imperial church and probably had the benefit of artists and craftsmen from Constantinople. I am sure a church what must establish the power of the court in Constantinople is pulling out the stops in producing one of the most impressive decorative interiors in the history of the Christian church. It also underscores what the Late Roman decoration had become. We can thank Justinian and most likely his underpaid and overworked artists.
